Posted 20 hours ago

Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many

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At the restaurant, we like to spread marmalade on a tart case, dot with frangipane, then strew with chocolate and bake. Served with cream, ice-cream and custard, this is very good in those last days of winter when a treat is often much needed. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Those spoilt types, like me, who are fortunate enough to eat occasionally at Quo Vadis will turn immediately to pies (“even the planet must have a crust”), knowing that no one on Earth makes a better one, before checking the index (I’ll save you the bother: it’s pages 144-5) for Lee’s smoked eel sandwich, for my money the greatest thing to appear on any menu (or cookbook page) since, yup, sliced bread. It goes without saying that ingredients have to be top notch but these recipes make the component parts shine.

But has traveled and cooked widely, citing influences from cooks in many places and generously, happily folding them into his repertoire.Mayan gold and yukon gold potatoes cook a treat in this recipe, king edwards work very well, and good results were also enjoyed with baking and roasting potatoes. this book is about good food honed from good ingredients whether that be some great potatoes, asparagus or some berries. Jeremy Lee uses an old fashioned soup spoon for measuring which is quite quirky although he says a tablespoon will do just as well. The book, Cooking: Simply And Well, For One or Many, was the result of many years of work, on and off, and he wasn’t quite ready to face its reality. God knows that this kind of thing is standing on the shoulders of the great and the many,” he says, gesturing to the shelves on all walls of his home.

Along the way he indulges in biscuits, blood oranges, chocolate, fish (“shiny darlings lifted from the deep”) offal, potatoes and soup, among other delights.Any leftover pastry can be sliced thinly, laid on a baking sheet and baked in a low oven until crisp and lightly coloured, making rather wonderful biscuits. Echoes of Richard Bawden’s work for Fortnum and Masons and certainly a spine that you can easily pick out on a bookshelf. The anna makes a splendid cake, perfect when cut into wedges and served with cuts of beef such as bavette, onglet, rump and loin, or fillet of lamb, hogget, mutton, pork and venison, and, of course, it goes very well with roast chicken. The great and good in food are all gushing about this book and as part of food’s upper tier it’s no surprise to see this praise for Mr Lee.

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